“Baobab oil, the secret ingredient in this amazing shampoo and conditioner, has transformed my hair…”

Thanks to their ability to create extremely rich shampoo lather, the same detergents that are used to degrease car engines have become standard ingredients the shampoos we’ve been buying for ourselves and our kids. In search of ‘clean’ hair, we’ve developed brittle, damage-prone locks, irritated scalps, and have exposed ourselves and our kids to chemicals that mimic hormones. Besides stripping the natural oil from hair, sulfates strip away at our expensive hair color and processing, too. And these chemicals are absorbed by the hair follicles, making it harder for us to produce healthy new strands when we lose hair. It’s such a frustrating cycle: when you strip your hair with a harsh sulfate you’ll need to compensate with conditioners, which leads to overuse of hair products that takes a terrible long term toll on your health and pocketbook.

Creating a family shampoo that safely lathers and cleanses — without using sulfates, phalates, other harmful chemicals — was the very reason we developed Free Your Mane. Now you know why we make such a fuss about being sulfate-free!

 “Free Your Mane Shampoo got a thumbs-up for not stripping her hair’s natural oils.” — W Magazine, 2012.

In Seattle, WA, Beatrice Basnight is known as the go-to hair stylist for men and women with every kind of curly, kinky, unmanageable hair (Allure Magazine rates her as one of the best of the best).

In person, she is incredibly genial and supportive to folks living with this kind of demanding hair, since she knows the challenges herself. She may actually set some kind of record for the massive amount of curls she has personally corralled in her lifetime.

Off-hours, though, Basnight is a little less sympathetic and a little more frustrated. She feels her clients don’t always listen to her basic advice about living with curls, and so keep coming back with the same issues of frizziness and displeasure over and over again. “All people have unrealistic expectations from their hair,” she says. “But curly-haired folk are some of the worst.” And “no one wants to spend time on their hair. No one wants to be thought of as fussy and high-maintenance.”

But she has rules and requirements. Here they are.

1) Stop shampooing so much — Wash about ¼ as often as you normally do. Get a great shampoo and use it sparingly (she uses Free Your Mane Conditioning Shampoo). Afterwords, rinse, rinse, rinse, rinse. “Overall your hair will be less frizzy, less dry, and less flyway if you stop over-washing. You’ll have a better medium to build upon.”

2) Treat your hair like a Chanel silk blouse, not like a dirty t-shirt. After you wash and condition, use a wide tooth comb to gently work through a leave-in product (conditioner, oil, pomade) covering every strand. (Throw away all your hairbrushes, she says. Unless they are wide-toothed.) After that, finger-comb your hair gently to help “your natural curl-friends find each other.” Then let the hair fall where it may. Once it’s fully hydrated, let it air-dry or sit under a hood dryer (only).

3) After your hair has fully dried, gently crunch the curls to break up any crispness that’s formed from the products. “Not a hard ‘80s scrunching,” she says, “just a soft, gentle crunching.” 

4) Between shampoos, use a reviving spray to keep down the flyaway bits and bring spring back to your curls. But DO NOT expect it to look exactly that same as the day before. “The only consistent thing about curly hair is that it’s inconsistent. You will not have the same exact hairdo for two consecutive days of your life. Curly hair is an adventure — it requires letting go and embracing the adventure.”

“Free Your Mane Shampoo and Conditioner got a thumbs-up for not stripping her hair’s natural oils.” W Magazine, Jane Larkworthy.

Click here to try Free Your Mane Shampoo and Conditioner today!

Viola Davis at the 2012 Oscars, source: newswhip.com

by Nikia Phoenix

On Oscar night, I saw a vision of beauty I had not seen before. Shining on the red carpet in an emerald green dress and a kinky coif was Academy Award nominee Viola Davis. My mouth dropped when I saw her, and I smiled from ear to ear. I had been hoping for this moment.

Just weeks before the Academy Awards, Viola Davis stripped off her usual wigs and debuted her natural hair for a spread in LA Times Magazine. When I first saw the photos, I couldn’t believe it was her. She was confident and regal. I immediately took to my favorite social networks to talk about the shoot. My friends and I wondered why it took Viola so long to share her kinks and curls with us, and would she show her real hair at the Academy Awards?

Hollywood has its own ideas of what’s beautiful and what’s not. Unfortunately really kinky or coily hair has not traditionally fit into these parameters. For decades actors, models, and musicians have straightened their hair to blend in with their contemporaries. So when Viola Davis stepped out in all her natural hair glory, she basically threw the book at those outdated beauty standards. And then to see the elegant Esperanza Spaulding singing on stage during the Oscars with her afro big and proud was the icing on the cake. Natural hair lovers were able to rejoice at these wonderful women representing us that night.

Viola Davis has inspired so many people by revealing the hair that her mother gave her.  It takes courage and strength to go against the norm and embrace your true self.  All of this made me think about my own natural hair journey and how  challenging it’s been both physically and emotionally. I just hope that Viola and her hair will set off a ripple effect so that years from now our daughters won’t feel the need to hide their natural beauty underneath a wig.

Guest blogger Nikia Phoenix is a South Carolina native who started off as a television news producer before becoming a model. Since being discovered in a coffee shop, her freckled face has been in magazines, on billboards, and on television. 

She writes a blog called Model Liberation where she shares insight into the fashion industry while also promoting natural beauty. 

What an honor to be featured in O Magazine! I’ve gleaned so much inspiration from Oprah over the years, from her entrepreneurship to her spiritual quest to her philanthropic work.

Thank you Oprah!

She warmed our hearts with her character on Gilmore Girls and her transition into a more mature role as Lena Kaligaris in the film adaptation of ‘The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants,’ really exemplified her talents. Did I mention the girl also has great hair? As seen in the August Issue of People Style Watch in the Celeb Love That section, Alexis was featured amongst Kate Bosworth, January Jones and more featuring the products that they can’t get enough of. For Alexis, she attributes the health of her fabulous hair to Free Your Mane’s Intensive Hydrating Hair Masque because, “It’s my secret weapon. It keeps my hair healthy, hydrated and frizz-free.” Specially developed to to accelerate the repair and rejuvenation process, this high performance masque seals damaged ends, smoothes edges and works wonders on natural or processed hair. Simply use once a week for 15 minutes or leave on overnight to enhance results! “ BGlowing

Click here to try Free Your Mane’s Intensive Hydrating Hair Masque !

Free Your Mane’s Conditioning Pomade is number 1 on Teen Vogue’s ten most wanted list!

Only last month, my good friend Sherri pulled me aside during holiday celebrations to quietly ask if the widely advertised Brazilian Blowout might be safe for her 6-year-old daughter. Sherri had seen the claims of “Straight Hair Today with NO Formaldehyde.” She knew other parents who were trying it, so it had to be good, no? If stylists were applying the formula without the usual gas masks or extra ventilation, didn’t that mean it was made from something different?   Sherri’s face fell when I told her the truth.

Recent investigations by the California Attorney General’s office and the Environmental Working Group revealed that although companies may disguise or rename the Formaldehyde in their products, it is still the operative ingredient. And hiding that fact only makes for magnified dangers when stylists neglect proper safety precautions like ventilation and masks because they’re supposedly working with ‘safe’ formulas.

The Brazilian Blowout is just one of many companies making false, eye-catching claims about formaldahyde-free products. The Environmental Working Group recently named 16 companies with high formaldehyde content in their hair straighteners, levels that exceeded safety limits set by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Some disguise the chemical by claiming that formaldehyde diluted by water is a new chemical called mythylene glycol. That’s like saying if you add water to your tea it’s not tea anymore but something entirely new.

Other companies use chemicals like aldehyde or morbic acid. When these are heated during the hair-straightening process they become gaseous formaldehydes. That’s why the procedure must be done in a well ventilated area and you still need to wear a mask. This is a good clue to it’s toxicity.

In 2011, the California Attorney General’s office stepped in to help protect unwitting customers by suing the makers of Brazilian Blowout over the products’ false claims.  In a settlement reached just last week, the Los Angeles Times reports “the company behind the popular Brazilian Blowout hair-straightening treatments will have to warn hairstylists that two of its most popular products can expose users to formaldehyde gas, according to the terms of a settlement with the California attorney general.”

At Free Your Mane, our highest hope is for everyone — man, woman, child — to find peace and contentment with their natural hair. We believe in celebrating our differences, not aiming for one universal version of beauty. But we’re also realistic about the struggles of handling certain hair types, especially during childhood, as well as the desire for young and old to play around with different hairstyles. In that vein, we’ve made two helpful guides for you:

Free Your Mane Brand Director, Dede Ford, with her daughter, Erica Gluck

Are you thinking of a rebirth for your chemically treated hair and want to transition back to what nature gave you? Well– this transition can be one rocky road so know you will need some support.

 The growing out period can be traumatizing to your hair and even your self-image. Trust me I have gone through it. I had to learn to be patient and kind to my hair and my soul. I tell women don’t think or say negative things about your natural hair or what you see in the mirror. Remember the media has tainted the image of natural hair and we believed it. IT’S NOT TRUE!

Quoting Mr. Al Sharpton “we wear our oppression on our heads everyday” Once you decide to go natural I suggest you have a plan. Figure out your approach– the big cut or slowly trim off the chemical. Seek a professional’s help.

I tell my clients lets play with different styles: straw sets, rod sets, even natural looking extensions are fun, mix it up. This will help the process go smoother. For more info you might want to pick up “Thank God I’m Natural”. This book is a must-have guide and it will give you more inspiration to follow through with your change. Good luck and stay positive.

Be Natural!

Free Your Mane Brand Director,

Dede Ford

We twisted the beautiful arms 

All good hairdos start with a don’t: Don’t play dirty! Heat styling will be most successful if you start with the foundation of clean, moisturized and well-conditioned hair.

• After you’ve washed and conditioned your hair, separate it into four sections. Lightly spray each section with  Free Your Mane Reviving Spray to further ease detangling and then comb out each section. Take a quarter size portion of  Baobab Brilliant Restorative Hair Oil and work it well into each section.
• Hair must be 100% dry before you flat iron so first blow dry each section of your hair using your favorite paddle or vent brush (we love the good old Denman). The Baobab Oil protects the hair from the heat while the silicone cuts drying time in half by bonding to the water molecules in your wet hair.
• Make sure you blow dry in one direction. This will help the cuticle lie flat — so if you do this job well you’re more than halfway there!
• Spend a little: Invest in the highest quality ceramic flat iron you can afford, one that allows you to regulate the heat precisely. Experiment with your hair texture and use the lowest heat setting you can for your hair type, working one section at a time. Do not exceed 400 degrees. It might take a bit longer but your hair will thank you in the long run.
• Once your hair is straightened, use a dab of the  Baoabab Oil to seal the cuticle (paying  special attention to the hairline and the ends) and wrap your hair in a clean silk scarf for at least ten minutes. That’s the stylist’s secret that ensures the perfect finishing touch.

1. Make a special date to do your child’s hair when he or she is not tired, hungry or cranky.

   

2. Is detangling a drag? Prepare for success by washing with a sulfate free shampoo that doesn’t strip her hair of natural oils. That way you don’t have to load up on conditioner afterwards. [Note: You may have to bypass and go straight to conditioner if you’re dealing with large mats.]

   Saturate her wet hair with a great detangling conditioner and learn how to detangle properly by first raking with fingers from ends to root. After this, you can begin using a wide tooth comb, or my favorite a massage brush like this one: You should be able to get them inexpensively at your local beauty supply. Hold the section of hair firmly near the scalp, and brush gently from ends to roots.

3. If you’re doing a long process like braiding, let her pick one of her favorite movies to watch.

4. And finally, don’t do her hair on the run in the morning when you are both rushed and stressed. Style it the night before and then refresh with a reviving spray.
   

My kids drive me bonkers. They often change clothes 3 times a day and leave a trail of debris behind them. I have to remind them every day to do things they ought to be doing on their own by now: brush your teeth, get a sweater, put your homework in you backpack. Kids make you hate the sound of your own voice after a while.

But then they’re at school, and the house is tidy and quite, just the way I like it, and I can get my work done. And I miss them. I think how sad I would be if they had never come into my life to up-end my selfish reverie– how I love to eavesdrop on Nola ‘teaching’ her imaginary students, how I adore watching Ziggy move through space like a ballet dancer, carving volumes around him out of thin air.

Every November is Adoption Awareness Month by Presidential Proclamation. But November has come and gone and over a hundred thousand children in our country go to bed every night dreaming of adoptive families. Sometimes they hold that dream in their hearts until their eighteenth birthdays when they are pushed out of the social welfare system and into the world. Alone.

Ziggy and Nola are amazing, truly, and wouldn’t be in our lives if it hadn’t been for adoption. When we told our placement social worker Cynthia Davis-Elliott (ie our stork) that we were open to adopting children of any race, she told me, to my surprise, that we could probably expect a placement within the next few weeks. I had expected to wait for quite a while since our preference was for a child under three years old. When I pressed her she explained that African American kids were harder to place. Especially boys. I was flummoxed.

We asked Cynthia, who happens to be Black, how she felt about a white family adopting brown kids. Her answer stuck with me. “In a perfect world their would be enough African American families to adopt all the African American kids in need — but there just aren’t. All things being equal your child will have a wonderful loving home with you and Dane and ultimately that’s the most important thing of all.”

Dane and I began gathering all the things on our list that we needed to have in place when our child arrived, keeping everything gender neutral. Our anticipation was palpable. One Friday evening about three weeks later I got a phone from Cynthia. “Israel,” she said, “I’ve got an emergency placement–boy girl African American twins. They were born on Monday and are being discharged tomorrow. Are you up for twins? I can give you fifteen minutes to think about it before I call my next family.” I called Dane. We didn’t need the whole fifteen minutes.

We rushed around that night and got a second set of everything: car seat, cradle, crib. We hardly slept. The next day around noon the rest of our life was handed to us by a nurse who pushed our little family out to sea, her  whispered encouragement the wind at our backs.

Eight years have past, not excluding some very difficult moments, inconsolable ones like when we thought the placement might not stick, or ordinary ones like sitting in a hot shower with Ziggy at 3 am, hoping it would quiet his asthma attack.

Never have we regretted our decision. I call adoption one of the few win-win situations in life and am proud to say that inspired by our family others have adopted through the County and have had equally rewarding experiences. You needn’t be rich —  all you need is a spare bedroom.

So if you, or anyone you know, has room in your heart or your home, look into adoption. There are wonderful agencies like ours, Children’s Bureau, that can help navigate the sometimes arduous process with the County, whose resources are often exhausted (no matter what county you are in). Children’s Bureau is a non-profit that has existed since 1904 to help potential foster and fost-adopt parents. Or reach out to Alliance Adoption Assistance, Cynthia’s organization that she started single-handedly to help educate and recruit families of color.

I can guarantee you will never regret it.

Israel

Since starting to work with Erica’s mom, Dede Ford, I’ve had the privilege of seeing Erica Gluck grow (gracefully) from a little girl to a lovely young lady. I watch carefully, attuned to the signs of tweendom like a I’m looking into a crystal ball–trying to foresee my future with my own daughter. I carefully emulate what Dede and Erica’s dad Michael do so that I might get a similiar result.

You might recognize Erica from her stint on “The Game”.  When the show was recently revived on BET fans caused an uproar when Erica’s character was replaced by an older actress. A blessing in disguise–  the hubbub brought her to the attention of the producers of Trinity Goodheart, penned by Rhonda Freeman-Baraka. Erica co-stars with Eric Benet and veteran actor James Hong,  playing the title character ”an exceptionally gifted 12 year old girl who is raised by her free-spirited musician father Jeremy (Benét).  Against her father’s wishes, Trinity begins a journey to reunite her disjointed family and, in the process, teaches them the value of love, faith and forgiveness.”

Erica works on her acting, school, helping spread the gospel of Free Your Mane, a burgeoning music career and still has the time to be a sweet inspiration to my daughter Nola (whose eyes get as big as saucers when she’s around). Watch for her on GMC’s Dove awards when she presents the award for Best Male Vocalist with Kim Fields. Of the experience she says,”It was awesome. I got to meet one of my heroes, Michele Williams of Destiny’s Child!”

Stay tuned and mark my words, you’re going to see a lot more of this talented girl!

-Israel